How to wash
Raw Denim
(by “raw” we mean the fabric has not gone through any post-weave processing at all) – raw denim is sometimes referred to as “loom-state”. Iron Heart raw fabric is: 21/23oz Ultra Heavy Raw (UHR).
• Soak inside-out for an hour or so in a bathtub or large sink of hot water and drip dry.
• Hand wash, or machine wash on a relatively short cycle (max 40°C/100°F) with low or no spin.
• Shake/stretch item to ensure no creases before drip drying or drying flat on a clothes rack.
• Do not tumble dry (this is likely to cause shrinkage and white marks).
Extra Heavy Selvedge (XHS) 25oz Denim
(25oz should be soaked/washed before wearing)
Iron Heart extra heavy selvedge fabrics are: 25oz Extra Heavy Selvedge Denim in Indigo, Indigo/Black, Black/Black.
• Turn garment inside-out.
• Hand wash, or machine wash on a relatively short cycle (max 40°C/100°F) with low or no spin.
• Shake/stretch item to ensure no creases before drip drying or drying flat on a clothes rack.
• Do not tumble dry (this is likely to cause shrinkage and white marks).
Washing Sanforized and One Washed Denim and Duck
(does not need soaking before wearing)
All Iron Heart denim and duck other than those listed above are sanforised and one washed.
• Turn garment inside-out and unfasten all buttons or snaps to reduce stress on threads and closures.
• Hand wash, or machine wash on a relatively short cycle (max 40°C/100°F) with low or no spin.
• Shake/stretch item to ensure no creases before drip drying or drying flat on a clothes rack.
• Do not tumble dry, this is likely to cause marbling (white marks/lines where the fabric rubs the drum of the tumble dryer)
Cotton Fabrics
This includes Cotton Flannel or Chambray Shirts, Cotton Whipcord (Unlined), T-Shirts and Sweatshirts/Hoodies.
• Turn garment inside-out and unfasten all buttons or snaps to reduce stress on threads and closures.
• Hand wash, or machine wash on a relatively short cycle (max 40°C/100°F) with low or no spin.
• To avoid shrinking, DO NOT tumble dry – hang or lie garments flat to dry and press if required.
• Cotton Whipcord alpaca lined deck jackets and vests are dry-clean (with petroleum solvent) only.
Other Fabrics - Primaloft®/Nylon/Polyester/Rayon/Linen/ Wool
Please refer to specific instructions found in the garment, but as a general guide -
Primaloft®
• Regular machine cycle (max 40°C/100°F).
• Provided the outer shell is synthetic, can be tumble dried on a low heat setting.
Polyester
• Regular machine cycle (max 30°C/86°F).
Rayon
• Handwash only.
Linen
• Regular machine cycle (max 30°C/86°F).
Wool
• Wool setting cycle (max 30°C/86°F).
How to TREAT COWHIDE, HORSEHIDE, DEERSKIN AND SUEDE/ROUGH-OUT
All leather garments should be hung correctly, stored in well-aired locations and not crushed. Never store leather garments, boots or accessories near a direct heat source such as a radiator, fire, hot water tank (airing cupboard) etc. or in view of direct sunlight for any prolonged periods. Exposure to high heat sources or sunlight will dry out and potentially discolour leather.
A good quality leather nourishing cream will help to keep leather supple and probably only needs application once or twice a year, it will also have light cleaning properties. We stock a number of leather care products for our footwear and other leather products. You don’t have to use any leather treatment or waterproofing on deerskin or horsehide, it simply isn’t necessary.
Cowhide
Cowhide is a tough leather with a very supple feel and should not require any breaking in. Generally black or brown cowhide garments will not show up marks easily so they are pretty easy to care for. If your jacket gets wet, wipe off the surface moisture with a clean dry towel and hang it up in a well ventilated area, but not too near a direct heat source. Let it dry naturally.
If you get oil or grease on your garment then put some flour or talcum powder on the stain, leave until the following day, wipe the majority of the powder away with a clean cloth and use a damp cloth to remove any residue.
Horsehide
Horsehide is an extremely tough leather and will require some breaking in. This leather is packed with waxes and oils in the tanning process and like any wax it stiffens when cold. Warmth from wearing the jacket will soften the hide so it’s pliable and comfortable.
Treating horsehide is easy: do nothing, absolutely nothing. Be tough, wear it and love it! If unworn for sometime, horsehide can show a “bloom” of white on its surface, this is just the wax used in the tanning process, it can be rubbed off with a dry cloth.
Deerskin
Deerskin is the softest and most supple of all of the leathers, it can even be put in the washing machine, if you’re brave enough (we’re a bit too scared). It is happy being immersed in water and will soften up and retain its shape once dry. It is therefore the easiest leather to clean (follow the cleaning guidelines for cowhide) but be careful of exposing light coloured deerskin to dark coloured clothing (such as indigo jeans) as this may cause the garment to take on unwanted colour.
Suede/Rough-Out
It is always best to have clean and dry, non oily hands when handling rough-out garments. If you should get caught out in the rain it should be fine for a short period if untreated, and the garment should be allowed to dry naturally i.e. do not place it over heaters or radiators. Once the garment is fully dried a light brush with a high quality soft clothes brush may be needed.
Soft cleaning sponges can be used where marks appear and a light brushing using a soft bristle clothes brush can be used to reduce/remove marks. When caring for rough-out footwear, remove any dirt from the surface of the boot with a bristle brush and use a suede eraser to remove any marks. Then, using the bristle brush, scrub the area thoroughly. Suede protectors can be used to maintain protection.