IH-888-XHS - 25oz Selvedge Denim Medium/High Rise Tapered Cut Jeans - Indigo

[Matt]

I’d say it feels as “weighty” and substantial but different.  Neither is better than the other, I’ve had both in my line up at the same time and never felt like I had to choose one over the other.  I purged recently so I could size down on everything and I fully intend on getting both back in the closet.  The UHR is my priority for my aforementioned reason.

The 25 is of course mathematically heavier but the 23 is more dense lending to less breathability.  2 ounces on the body is more or less indistinguishable.  The feel for each though is all its own.

[Mizmazzle]

I think I’m going to pull the trigger on the 888 XHS. I think the softness in the end is winning me over. Hopefully I don’t get too much FOMO from the UHR.

I’m thinking tag size 32 will get me in the sweet spot but hoping for a double check on my math.
My goal is a 33” waist. Tag 32 comes in 32.5. Should lose about 1/2 inch from soak/ wash. After wearing a bit should stretch out to about a 33”

Inseam I want to end at 32.5-33” so if I hem to 33.5 this should shrink right around to my goal length.

I’ve read this thread several times now haha. Just thought I’d run my thinking past the gurus around these parts.

[Dmart]

Your math for the waist should be fine. For hemming I can’t give you any advice. I only hem after washing.

[Mizmazzle]

Yeah, I may follow your lead on the hemming after washing @Dmart  don’t want to make an expensive mistake.

[Mizmazzle]

I was kind of over estimating the length in my prior post with the possibility of hemming shorter a second time if necessary. Probably better to wash first then hem though.

[Dmart]

Better safe than sorry. If you don’t mind a turnup for the time being.

[neph93]

The hem will not shrink the full inch. That is there as a max limit. I'd calculate for 0.5-0.75 shrinkage. Otherwise waist will end up a little bigger than starting dim's after shrinkage and stretch.

[goosehd]

@Mizmazzle I always put a lot of thought into a new pair of jeans and hems.  My first question is always: How will I wear them?  Single or double cuff, no cuff but stacks, no cuff and breaks at the shoe.  Then I have the question what kind of shoe am I typically going to wear with them.

Once you have answered those questions then I start thinking about hem length.  It sounds complicated, but you’ll get the knack of it.  The denim shrinkage is pretty standard for each specific type of denim.  Most of the info is on the forum, but sometimes you have to read pages of info to find your answer.  You can always ask around here too.  Sometimes we know, and sometimes we are still learning ourselves.

The easiest thing to remember is that it is easy to take material off, but adding is not.

Good luck!!

[Mizmazzle]

All this input is greatly appreciated. I’m so stoked to start this 25oz odyssey. Gonna have a heavy 21oz OD and 25oz XHS rotation…and probably the 888D when that comes through. Oh geez…how do y’all get such sweet results with so many pants and so few days in the week!!?

[bbrtns]

just to be sure: does the XHS need to be soaked before wear?

[Giles]

We recommend that you do (though, I don't bother)…..

https://www.ironheart.co.uk/content/product-care-guidelines

[Mizmazzle]

Trigger Pulled!

[Oaktavia]

@Mizmazzle:

Trigger Pulled!

Exciting!

[Mizmazzle]

Do most of y’all do the double chain stitch hem on these heavies?

[Paul9221]

@Mizmazzle:

Do most of y’all do the double chain stitch hem on these heavies?

I would obviously prefer chain stitch on all of my IH denim, but I never guess the inseam correctly pre-soak and invariably ask my wife to hem them using a standard heavy duty machine.

[Mizmazzle]

@Paul9221:

@Mizmazzle:

Do most of y’all do the double chain stitch hem on these heavies?

I would obviously prefer chain stitch on all of my IH denim, but I never guess the inseam correctly pre-soak and invariably ask my wife to hem them using a standard heavy duty machine.

I see I see. I’m hoping I guessed the length right haha. I read earlier in this thread that Giles and some others do a double chain stitch hem. Was kinda wondering if this thick of denim makes that method preferable. Does your wife send it through the machine an extra round?

[Paul9221]

@Mizmazzle:

@Paul9221:

@Mizmazzle:

Do most of y’all do the double chain stitch hem on these heavies?

I would obviously prefer chain stitch on all of my IH denim, but I never guess the inseam correctly pre-soak and invariably ask my wife to hem them using a standard heavy duty machine.

I see I see. I’m hoping I guessed the length right haha. I read earlier in this thread that Giles and some others do a double chain stitch hem. Was kinda wondering if this thick of denim makes that method preferable. Does your wife send it through the machine an extra round?

She has a bit of a tough time pinning the fabric down on account of its density, but once she has it pinned, it goes through the machine well.  And it's usually a single stitch.  Actually, I don't think I have double stitch on any of my stuff.

Double stitch is great if you can get it but it's not necessary for the jeans' structural integrity

[Giles]

I double chain stitch (which means chain stitching each leg 720 degrees), or even treble chain stitch because, with me, the hem stitching is what always goes first…..

[Nik]

Perhaps the extra chain stitching becomes necessary when the denim is not cuffed? My single stitches have never failed, but my jeans are cuffed. In my case, the abrasion of the denim against the footwear causes wear to the fold of the cuff, while the stitches are undisturbed.

[Giles]

I would not say it is necessary, but chain stitch is an inherently weak stitch.  I don't cuff, so I know the hem stitching will fail at some point, so I just do a 720 or 1080…..