16.5oz Raw Indigo/Indigo Duck
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I have been talking to Haraki, when we weave a 1/1 (Plain weave) we need to subject the fill thread to more tension to ensure a tightly woven fabric. Given the thickness (weight) of the yarns we are using for this duck, the strain is enormous. We managed to weave enough for about 120 pairs of jeans before the frame of the loom shattered.
It is 50:50 whether we will be able to convince the mill to continue making the selvedge version of this duck, we may have to use a projectile loom, which means no selvedge ID
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Selvage schmelvage.
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i care.
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Doesn't matter to me.
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As long as we get a vest out of this I could care less if it's selvedge or not.
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I think that the honest answer is that most customers who have a little more experience and appreciation for this kind of clothing will see past the selvedge aspect, for others it will be an important detail as I believe Self Edge found with a minority of customers on the original run of the 301's.
My personal feeling is that for something like this it is definitely about the fabric and how it feels, wears and evolves. It isn't standard denim so the considerations are different.
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My preference is for selvedge, if the mill (this one: http://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=5545.msg309722#msg309722 ) say they do not want to risk the looms, then so be it. They have a projectile loom so it will be woven by the same husband/wife team….
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If the options are:
A) attempt selvedge and possibly destroy the looms,
give up on the double indigo duck entirely,
C) make non-selvedge and lose a few sales from people unwilling to look past that one feature,then I'm going to go with option C every time. As Mega said, it's a different fabric, so the priorities are different.
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trouser turnups do look so much better with selvage!
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OK. We have decided not to risk the loom. It is old and irreplaceable.
So the balance of the duck will be woven on the projectile loom. Haraki will let me have all of the selvedge duck we have made and I am just trying to decide what to do with it. Haraki's suggest a special run of jeans called the "Loom Breaker Edition"
